Sunday, October 30, 2016
2016 Christmas Ornament Auctions
The Fourth Axis 2016 Christmas Auctions will be starting up this evening at 7:30PM CST Oct 30 2016.
Just a few things tonight to prime the pump -- lots of good stuff still to come in the following weeks!
So visit ebay and take a look!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/bgreen42/m.html
2016 Christmas Ornament Auctions
The Fourth Axis 2016 Christmas Auctions will be starting up this evening at 7:30PM CST Oct 30 2016.
Just a few things tonight to prime the pump -- lots of good stuff still to come in the following weeks!
So visit ebay and take a look!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/bgreen42/m.html
Sunday, September 25, 2016
How to Print with G+ resin in a Formlabs Form1+
THE LONG STORY
Disclaimer: use the following instructions at your own risk. I take no responsibility for damage to your equipment or damage to or loss of property. It's working for me, your mileage may vary.
I 've been having all sorts of trouble printing reliably with the Formlabs resins and the Makerjuice SF resins for Form1/1+. For the most part , the Makerjuice SF has been OK, but I got a bad batch recently that wouldn't cure worth beans.
So I thought I'd try an experiment and try some G+ resin in the Form1+. Hey, its only $55USD per liter, so if I could make it work it would be cheaper than printing with anything else. So I ordered a half liter for fun.
For my first experiment, I poured it into an already beat up resin tray that was either getting thrown out or reconditioned. There were still some bits around the periphery that were pretty clear so I figured it would be a fair test with some small parts. The parts printed well, although a bit brittle. The process, however, was fairly hard on the resin vat, causing distinct clouding. As expected, the laser was a bit much for G+. Too bad there wasn't a way in software to adjust the laser intensity. (I played around with the profile files found in the Materials directory, but they seem to be encrypted)
Hmmmm, what to do? My first thought was to add some sort of physical filter to the bottom of the resin vat. Like the ones you would use on a stage light. Like one of these:
http://www.rosco.com/filters/roscolux.cfm#colors
I figured on getting a series of the blue filters, since they would have the most subtle effect on the UV to 440nm range of light. The filters are meant to be used with very HOT stage lights so they shouldn't have any trouble withstanding a little laser light.
So I looked up my local ROSCO rep and dropped by the shop. Salesman was out. Leave your name and number and he'll get back to you. Didn't hear boo. Went again. Salesman was out. Was told to send him an email with the items I wanted. I got prices back but he didn't seem all that interested in taking an order cuz I wasn't one of his $10000 customers. On my third trip, I finally got satisfaction, but not because anyone was there to sell me the gels that I wanted. I snagged one of these sample books for free:
My intention was still to put a big 6x6 swatch on the bottom of the resin vat, but figured I could experiment with these to figure out exactly what filter(s) would be the most appropriate.
Then it dawned on me. It doesn't have to go on the bottom of the tank...
It can go in front of the small stationary mirror...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)
THE SHORT STORY
Disclaimer: use the following instructions at your own risk. I take no responsibility for damage to your equipment or damage to or loss of property. It's working for me, your mileage may vary.
So you want to use Makerjuice G+ resin in your Form1/1+ without frying your resin vat. Here's how:
1. Go to your ROSCO lighting dealer and get a sample book of ROSCOLUX filters. Its a book of sample swatches of colored plastic about 1" x 3" each. Pretend that you're doing lighting for a high school musical or an indy film if you like. They should be glad to give you one.
2. cut the sucker apart and locate the #3204 Half Blue filter.
3. place it over the window between the small and large stationary mirrors in your Form1/1+. Secure it with a little scotch tape or packing tape across the bottom edge.
4. Fill your vat with $55USD/litre Makerjuice G+ Resin
5. Set your resin type to Grey V1 in the software and print away.
Disclaimer: use the following instructions at your own risk. I take no responsibility for damage to your equipment or damage to or loss of property. It's working for me, your mileage may vary.
I 've been having all sorts of trouble printing reliably with the Formlabs resins and the Makerjuice SF resins for Form1/1+. For the most part , the Makerjuice SF has been OK, but I got a bad batch recently that wouldn't cure worth beans.
So I thought I'd try an experiment and try some G+ resin in the Form1+. Hey, its only $55USD per liter, so if I could make it work it would be cheaper than printing with anything else. So I ordered a half liter for fun.
For my first experiment, I poured it into an already beat up resin tray that was either getting thrown out or reconditioned. There were still some bits around the periphery that were pretty clear so I figured it would be a fair test with some small parts. The parts printed well, although a bit brittle. The process, however, was fairly hard on the resin vat, causing distinct clouding. As expected, the laser was a bit much for G+. Too bad there wasn't a way in software to adjust the laser intensity. (I played around with the profile files found in the Materials directory, but they seem to be encrypted)
Hmmmm, what to do? My first thought was to add some sort of physical filter to the bottom of the resin vat. Like the ones you would use on a stage light. Like one of these:
http://www.rosco.com/filters/roscolux.cfm#colors
I figured on getting a series of the blue filters, since they would have the most subtle effect on the UV to 440nm range of light. The filters are meant to be used with very HOT stage lights so they shouldn't have any trouble withstanding a little laser light.
So I looked up my local ROSCO rep and dropped by the shop. Salesman was out. Leave your name and number and he'll get back to you. Didn't hear boo. Went again. Salesman was out. Was told to send him an email with the items I wanted. I got prices back but he didn't seem all that interested in taking an order cuz I wasn't one of his $10000 customers. On my third trip, I finally got satisfaction, but not because anyone was there to sell me the gels that I wanted. I snagged one of these sample books for free:
My intention was still to put a big 6x6 swatch on the bottom of the resin vat, but figured I could experiment with these to figure out exactly what filter(s) would be the most appropriate.
Then it dawned on me. It doesn't have to go on the bottom of the tank...
It can go in front of the small stationary mirror...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)
Ya! Just take the book apart and tape a filter to the window between the small and large stationary mirrors. A little scotch tape across the bottom is enough to hold it in place. The best combination I've found so far is using a #3204 Half Blue filter and the Formlabs Grey V1 resin setting.
So far the process has been far more reliable than using the recommended resins, not to mention CHEAPERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So now my Form1 friends, go play!
THE SHORT STORY
Disclaimer: use the following instructions at your own risk. I take no responsibility for damage to your equipment or damage to or loss of property. It's working for me, your mileage may vary.
So you want to use Makerjuice G+ resin in your Form1/1+ without frying your resin vat. Here's how:
1. Go to your ROSCO lighting dealer and get a sample book of ROSCOLUX filters. Its a book of sample swatches of colored plastic about 1" x 3" each. Pretend that you're doing lighting for a high school musical or an indy film if you like. They should be glad to give you one.
2. cut the sucker apart and locate the #3204 Half Blue filter.
3. place it over the window between the small and large stationary mirrors in your Form1/1+. Secure it with a little scotch tape or packing tape across the bottom edge.
4. Fill your vat with $55USD/litre Makerjuice G+ Resin
5. Set your resin type to Grey V1 in the software and print away.
Friday, July 29, 2016
Cygnus Update
For those that are waiting for Cygnus upgrade parts, apologies for my absence. What have I been up to?
1) Bathroom renos
2) Checking out alternative resins. I've been making non-destructive tweaks to the Form1 to see if I can modify it to use DLP resins such as Makerjuice G+. Stay tuned, I should be sharing my secret in near future.
3) Pushing ahead with detailing strips, crowsnests and antennae bases for the Cygnus. Also tweaking the antenna for the Palomino.
4) Most importantly, this...
1) Bathroom renos
2) Checking out alternative resins. I've been making non-destructive tweaks to the Form1 to see if I can modify it to use DLP resins such as Makerjuice G+. Stay tuned, I should be sharing my secret in near future.
3) Pushing ahead with detailing strips, crowsnests and antennae bases for the Cygnus. Also tweaking the antenna for the Palomino.
4) Most importantly, this...
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Saturday, June 11, 2016
Cygnus Landing Bay v1.0 Test Fit
After a bit of chopping, sanding and a really half-assed paintjob, here we are...
It turned out a couple of mm short and I don't like how thick the side walls are. Will be redesigning the wall parts today.
Sunday, June 5, 2016
Cygnus Landing Bay
I've worked out most of the bugs with printing the landing bay detail set. Here is a picture of the latest parts...
Only one fly in the ointment -- due to printing and design tolerances, etc etc, my bay is about 1.5 mm too narrow. I'm going to do a test build with the parts shown anyways to get an idea of how they fit together and paint up. Then I'll do some cutting on the Cygnus and figure out just how much I need to tweak the size.
Only one fly in the ointment -- due to printing and design tolerances, etc etc, my bay is about 1.5 mm too narrow. I'm going to do a test build with the parts shown anyways to get an idea of how they fit together and paint up. Then I'll do some cutting on the Cygnus and figure out just how much I need to tweak the size.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Tuesday, May 17, 2016
More Cygnus Pictures
Not much to say, just some pictures of the LEVEL 2 expansion section. Will need to alter some of the support structure for the print job and reroute a little on the piping, but the design is pretty much done for this bit. Now on to the landing bay...
Monday, May 16, 2016
Sunday, May 8, 2016
Cygnus Update
So here's what I'm calling the LEVEL 1 Cygnus extension kit:
LEVEL 3 - No doubt I will discover bits and pieces along the way that I want to add. These parts will become part of the level 3 expansion kit. Also, if you wish to acquire any parts "a la carte", get in touch and I'll work out a price... bverde84 atsign hotmail dawt com
It consists of 9 parts; a hull extension, two top panels, two side panels, two piping standoffs, a piping extension and two nose detail pieces. Cost is a little higher than expected at $63USD. It will enable the kit builder to implement the extension with parts that are consistent in detail with existing kit and required little cutting.
HOWEVER, you may wish to wait to see how the LEVEL 2 parts turn out before committing. At the moment, my plan is to include two detailed hull extensions (shown below), an upgraded landing bay and Palomino, additional lattice detailing for the spine and sides of the ship and upgraded antennas -- everything that I can think of at the start of my build. This set will likely be around $120USD
LEVEL 3 - No doubt I will discover bits and pieces along the way that I want to add. These parts will become part of the level 3 expansion kit. Also, if you wish to acquire any parts "a la carte", get in touch and I'll work out a price... bverde84 atsign hotmail dawt com
Sunday, May 1, 2016
Cygnus Level 1 Update
This week I updated the body extension section (removed piping standoff) and printed two piping standoffs for the original section. These and the side panel extensions are shown here:
I also printed a pair of lattice pieces for the nose, but they were too thin and flimsy, will redo those today.
Regarding the necessary extension to the piping rails, I WAS just going to say "screw it, make your own", but there's no sprue in this kit that matches. So I'll also include a piece for that. Also working on that today.
I also printed a pair of lattice pieces for the nose, but they were too thin and flimsy, will redo those today.
Regarding the necessary extension to the piping rails, I WAS just going to say "screw it, make your own", but there's no sprue in this kit that matches. So I'll also include a piece for that. Also working on that today.
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
How far do you want to go?
So far I've been designing extension parts for the CYGNUS that match the body as it currently exists. But I'm considering some further modifications.
Off the top, I'm thinking about redesigning the extension section to have more authentic, open girderwork on the outside and more detailing on the tanks and piping... something like this. Only problem is if I upgrade A and B, then I have to do an upgrade section for the back of the hull as well for section C. Easily duplicated in CAD, but will add to the cost.
I'm thinking about making some detail sections to stick to the front of the mandibles (E).
Also thinking about chopping the antennae bases off (D) and replacing the antennaes with more accurate parts.
Not shown here, I have side panel exztensions for A + B that are working pretty well. Will post those in a bit.
I think what I will do in the end, is I will produce a level one and level two upgrade kit. Level one will be consistent with the current hull and will cost $50. Level two upgrades will be more dramatic and will require a lot more cutting... also slightly more expensive.
Feed back? Tim? Ford?
Off the top, I'm thinking about redesigning the extension section to have more authentic, open girderwork on the outside and more detailing on the tanks and piping... something like this. Only problem is if I upgrade A and B, then I have to do an upgrade section for the back of the hull as well for section C. Easily duplicated in CAD, but will add to the cost.
I'm thinking about making some detail sections to stick to the front of the mandibles (E).
Also thinking about chopping the antennae bases off (D) and replacing the antennaes with more accurate parts.
Not shown here, I have side panel exztensions for A + B that are working pretty well. Will post those in a bit.
I think what I will do in the end, is I will produce a level one and level two upgrade kit. Level one will be consistent with the current hull and will cost $50. Level two upgrades will be more dramatic and will require a lot more cutting... also slightly more expensive.
Feed back? Tim? Ford?
Sunday, April 24, 2016
Cygnus Extension Parts
So you're building the MPC Cygnus from Disney's The Black Hole, but you want to be cool like James Small and add the missing hull section like this (I've always liked this build).
It'd be a shame to have to cannibalize a second kit to do this. Also potentially a bit expensive. That's why I've been working on a set of 3D printed extension parts.
I'm printing the side panel extensions today. Before too long I should have these selling on e-bay, or you can contact me directly at bverde84 atsign hotmail dawt com if you are interested in a set of extension parts. Final pricing is yet to be determined, but I expect to be around $50-60USD
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